Posted: 14-May-2018 | Category: General
Rooflight
Having got the awning fitted, and the solar panel ordered (so I know the size), it was time to fit the roof light. It ended up in the same position I had always planned.
The hole was carefully marked out using a panel cut from plastic. Once again I cut from the inside - this time it was much easier to cut the hole from inside as it meant not leaning over the roof to reach.
The roof has ridges to stiffen the panel. It is necessary to fill the panel so that a level surface is presented to the rooflight; I used uPVC trim as used with double glazing to make a square panel. This was stuck / sealed in place using Sikaseal. The rooflight itself was sealed onto the uPVC using Dekaseal. Note how much swarf is left around after the cut.
Timber was bonded on the inside for the trim to be fixed to - it was bonded on using Stixall. The photo shows the wood battens and the internal panel.
The rooflight in place
Posted: 15-May-2018 | Category: General
More insulation
More insulation going in...
Rear doors and roof done
Roof around the rooflight finished
Posted: 22-May-2018 | Category: General
Second window
Finally a break in the weather and so second window going in.
Same procedure as last time.....
Marking out
Hole cut
Completed window - inside view
Completed window - outside view
Posted: 24-May-2018 | Category: General
Finalising the rear doors
Wooden battens fitted using Stixall - to be used for fixing the trim panels.
Wooden battens and insulation fitted
One door done
And the other
Posted: 26-May-2018 | Category: General
More electrics
Split charging / Battery charging / Solar panels
Back when I converted the VW Transporter, all I needed was a split charging relay - basically a simple relay that connected the leisure battery to the van alternator when the engine was running. In order to meet the latest Euro-6 emission standards, the new van has a "smart alternator", which means it only charge swhen the engine is on overrun, etc - not all the time. In fact it never charges the starter battery to more than 80% in order that there is a buffer for the charge coming from the alternator.
So a more sophisticated "battery to battery" charger is required, a unit which takes power from the starter battery when possible to charge the leisure battery. I opted for the CTEK D250 (purchased with a wiring harness, fuses etc from Rayne Automotive) as it has good reviews and importantly has inputs for a solar panel to be connected.
I also wanted a mains battery charger, to (a) charge the leisure battery when on mains hookup and (b) act as the vehicle power supply for lights etc when on hookup. I went for Victron unit as I have one in the VW T4 and it has worked a treat.
The starter battery is linked to the CTEK unit via a 6mm2 cable
The "electrics" - showing consumer unit; switched spur for the mains battery charger, CTEK "split charger"; Victron Battery Charger; 10-way fusebox. The choc block is a temporary earthing point, to be replaced with an earthing block.
I have purchased a 150W solar panel to go on the roof - that is not yet fitted.
Posted: 03-Jun-2018 | Category: General
More windows
Good progress today - TWO windows installed...
Sliding window - used a slider as it will be behind the main side door at times and I was worried about a hinged window getting hit if we forgot the window was open!
The final window - a hinged one for the washroom.
Posted: 05-Jun-2018 | Category: General
Ply flooring lifted
In preparation for the fitting of the water tanks this week, the existing ply flooring has been lifted.
The under-slung water tanks had been ordered way back in March from Shaun at Barratt Tanks - originally I had been told to expect a 6-7 week wait - in the end it was just over 12 weeks!
Posted: 07-Jun-2018 | Category: General
Water tanks, plus more
I had ordered the under slung water tanks way back in March, and was warned there would be a 6 week delay, but in the end it was over 12 weeks! I had a conversation with Shaun at Barratt Tanks last week about layout - the problem with that sort of conversation is that it is hard for a first timer.
Finally got the water tanks fitted - I went up to Ferrybridge to Shaun Barratt's place - he does a great job making and installing the tank.
The position of the water outlet and waste points on the tanks is determined from the conversation you have with Shaun beforehand, so it is important to understand what is involved - I'll post an explanation shortly.
The tank - it is split 75 litres for water, 65 litres for waste.
The tank in place
In discussion with Shaun about where to fit an under-slung gas tank, he recommended Autogas 2000 up in Thirsk. As I was "in the area" I thought I would pop in and talk to them about it - Shaun warned that it might be some weeks before they could fit it if I went with them.
Any, to cut along story short, they happened to have a spare slot that afternoon due to the morning's job being quicker than expected. So I now have a 25litre gas tank on board as well!
Gas tank in place
Gas feed into the van.
Posted: 08-Jun-2018 | Category: General
Understanding water tanks
As per my previous post, there is need to have a basic understanding of what is going where for the water tanks.
The maximum size seems to be determined by the type of van - you can of course go smaller. For the Master, Shaun at Barratt Tanks recommended 75 litres of fresh and 65 litres of grey - the maximum size for the van.
It is then necessary to specify where the connections need to be:
Fresh Water Outlet - this is the connection for the water feed into the van, and should be located roughly where water pump is to be located.
Waste Water Connections - these should be located as close to the various sinks / basins as practical - so there position will be dependent upon your van layout. Typically the sink connection is at the side, and the washroom connection at the rear, assuming a rear based washroom.
Posted: 09-Jun-2018 | Category: General
Laying the false floor
So now that the tanks are in, the suspended / false floor can go in. I am using 23 x 38mm roof battens (treated timber) for the "joists", filling between with insulation and then laying 12mm marine ply on top. I pondered about the thickness of the ply and did consider reusing the original 9mm play floor, but in the end decided to go thicker and more water resistant - I only want to lay the floor once and everything fixes to it!
Fitting the first battens.
More battens